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Prager Gruner Veltliner 'Stockkultur'

, 2005


Wachau 75cl

This is an incredible Gruner Veltliner. Here are David Schildnekcht note's from Robert Parkers Wine Advocate."The 2005 Gruner Veltliner Achleiten Stockkultur, named for the traditional propagation of vines low to the ground and on a single stake, reflects the precocious ripeness, susceptibility to botrytis, minuscule yields, and enormous genetic variety characteristic of a single ancient parcel Bodenstein acquired several years ago. (In fact, the more botritized fruit from his younger vines in the Achleiten were directed to this bottling as well.) Twenty-six grams of residual sugar – while not especially obvious in its effect due to its sheer density and Mosel Riesling-like acidity – prevent this opulent, rich, honeyed wine from being labeled as “Smaragd.” For all of its fullness, creaminess, and sheer ripeness, it displays remarkable clarity and lift, as well as subtle herbal, floral, and mineral notes and a remarkable degree of interplay. In short, it dramatically illustrates its great vineyard origins as well as the unique heritage of its ancient vines. The finish is transcendentally long and evocative. How can something this nearly over the top evince more Achleiten typicity than its largely botrytis-free Smaragd counterpart? Perhaps its record-breaking forty-two grams of sugar-free dry extract are trying to tell us something. They certainly raise an eyebrow. The wine itself will raise the hair on the back of your head. My guess is it will also make old bones and if you are trying to latch on to some of it, all I can say is “break a leg!”
Amazing nose , really zesty with mango, honey, passion fruit, spice- quite floral. It's a medium style that really explodes on the palate. Huge lime and tropical fruit with honey and reeally fresh zingy acidity. It's has huge weight yet is so fresh and immediately appealing. It's like a German Spatlese (an exceptional one) on steroids. Huge concentration yet finishing fresh and crisp with minerals and honey. One of the most amazing Gruner Veltliner's i have ever tried. It combines sweetness with tropical fruit, limey acidity, minerals and real power yet all perfectly blanced. I am glad i have another 2 or 3 bottles to see the evolution of this !! 2006 is looking potentially even better i hope they make this again!!

Published: 3 March 2007

, Author: Noel

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